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Universal Gardener

Melinda Myers, known for her gardener friendly and practical approach to gardening, has more than 25 years of horticulture experience in both hands-on and instructional settings. She has a bachelor’s degree in horticulture from The Ohio State University and a master’s degree in horticulture from University of Wisconsin-Madison, is a certified arborist and the author of 19 books, and was a horticulture instructor with tenure at Milwaukee Area Technical College. Click here to see her video tips.

Hail noble fruit!

Question: I planted grapes several years ago to cover an arbor at the entrance to my back garden. The plants have completely covered the arbor but have never produced fruit. Please advise.

Answer: Anyone who has grown grapes can relate to your dilemma. These fast-growing plants are great for quick cover but do require some regular pruning for best productivity. A trip through wine country will show professionals invest time and energy pruning plants to encourage larger harvests.

The grape clusters form on shoots arising from one-year-old shoots. The first four to ten buds on last year’s growth will form the fruiting shoots. The four-cane Kniffin system has long been used to control growth and encourage a good harvest. This system establishes a framework of one main stem and four side branches that serve as base for fruiting shoots. The fruiting shoots will quickly grow and cover the trellis and grape clusters should follow quickly. Wait until late winter or early spring before growth begins to start pruning.

Welcoming winged friends

Question: I have a balcony garden and would love to attract birds and butterflies to my small space. Do you have any suggestions?

Answer: The space available and height above street level won’t keep birds and butterflies away from a garden that provides food and shelter. A small water feature is sure to attract birds. I have a wall mounted fountain on my second floor balcony and often spy robins visiting for a drink or bath. Or use one of the hanging or small bird baths or glass flowers designed to hold a small amount of water for butterflies. Then plant food for the winged wonders you are trying to attract. Verbena bonariensis is a great plant that attracts both butterflies and hummingbirds. Plus it just might reseed in your containers for several seasons of enjoyment. Lantana, petunias, single zinnias and marigolds, sunflowers, Mexican sunflower and cosmos are just a few sun lovers that attract butterflies and some provide seeds for the birds. Fuchsia, nicotiana and four o’clocks are good for butterflies. Try a few perennials in pots. Use large containers and plants one zone hardier to increase the chance for winter survival. Look for milkweed and daisy-like flowers for butterflies, parsley, fennel and licorice vine for caterpillars and coneflower, black-eyed Susan and other seed producers for finches and other seed-eating birds.

Greener grass under a tree

Question: I have trouble growing grass in my yard. I have a large tree that shades most of the area. I plant seed in spring but it thins over the summer and doesn't survive winter. How can I get my grass to grow?

Answer: Shade and competition for moisture are the main reasons it is difficult to grow grass in shade. Try using fescues and perennial ryegrass that tend to be more shade tolerant. Avoid over fertilization as this encourages top growth and discourages root development. And water thoroughly, but only when the top soil is crumbly and slightly moist, to encourage deep drought-resistant roots. You can thin the tree's canopy to increase the light reaching the grass. Consider hiring a certified arborist (tree care professional) to maintain your tree's health and beauty while letting in the light. If these efforts fail, consider growing shade-tolerant groundcovers like ginger, bugleweed, coral bells (Heucheras), foamflowers (Tiarella), pachysandra, and vinca. Make sure the groundcovers you choose are hardy and not invasive in your region. For shadier areas, mulch with woodchips or shredded bark. Keep the mulch away from the trunk and less than three inches deep.

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Comments to date: 2. Page 1 of 1.

Bernice, Kent, England	Posted at 7:41am on Saturday, September 22nd, 2007
The new chemicals for weed control don't sound worth the trouble if they could so easily kill the plants you're trying to grow. What's so wrong with putting aside ten minutes a day to pluck up weeds? As our Prince Charles said sometime ago, people in the world today are living their lives too fast.
Terri, Eastern seaboard	Posted at 7:24pm on Saturday, September 15th, 2007
Thanks for the tips, Melinda. As someone who's lost one too many plants, I have a question. Is there a fool-proof method or device to know when and how much to water a plant?

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UNIVERSAL GARDENER
by Melinda Meyers